Some 20km south of Mbabane at the heart of the eZulwini Valley, LOBAMBA was originally built in 1830 for King Sobhuza I, and became the royal kraal of Sobhuza II. The Houses of Parliament are situated here, and must be one of the few in the world to have cattle grazing undisturbed in surrounding fields. Next door, fascinating exhibitions of Swazi life can be found in the National Museum (Mon-Fri 8am-1pm & 2-3.45pm, Sat & Sun 10am-1pm & 2-3.45pm; E10). They provide a helpful potted history of the country, with displays of cultural artefacts and wonderful old photographs of Swazi people and royalty, of Manzini and Mbabane when they were one-horse towns, of sweaty British administrators in full colonial regalia attending functions of the Swazi royal house, and much more. A natural history wing was also opened recently. The museum is the base of the National Trust Commission , PO Box 100 (Mon-Fri 8am-1pm & 2-3.45pm, Sat & Sun 10am-1pm & 2-3.45pm; tel 4161151, ), which handles bookings for the Mantenga, Malolotja and Mlawula nature reserves.

 

Outside the museum stands a life-size re-creation of a traditional Swazihomestead. Remarkably, given their size, these huts are actually portable. Across the road is King Sobhuza II Memorial Park , a peaceful open space dedicated to the much-loved late king. Nearby, Lobamba's Somhlolo stadium is the country's venue for major events and football matches, which are usually highly entertaining. For a few emalangeni on a Sunday afternoon, you can treat yourself to violence-free games of occasional great skill, with a good-humoured and vociferous crowd. Consult the local Times of Swaziland for details, or ask almost any male Swazi.

On the other side of the MR103 from Lobamba, the village of LUDZIDZINI is the royal kraal of the present king, Mswati III, and the Queen Mother. Unlike Lobamba, Ludzidzini cannot be visited or even photographed at all except during Ncwala (around New Year) and Umhlanga (end of Aug/early Sept), when permission must be obtained.