KRUGER NATIONAL PARK is arguably the emblem of South African tourism; the place that delivers best what most visitors to Africa want to see - scores of elephants, lions and a cast of thousands of other game roaming the savannah. A narrow strip of land hugging the Mozambique border, Kruger stretches across Northern Province and Mpumalanga, an astonishing 414-kilometre drive from Pafuri Gate in the north to Malelane Gate in the south, all of it along tar, with many well-kept gravel roads looping off to provide routes for game drives.
Kruger is designed for self-driving and self-catering , though the temptation is to drive too much and too fast, leading to fewer sightings, and rental cars tend to be low off the ground and aren't as good for game viewing as those used by lodges or tour operators. However, self-driving offers complete flexibility, and you can hop in a car knowing you'll find supplies once you arrive at most of the restcamps (though not much in the way of fruit or vegetables) - indeed it remains the only way of seeing Kruger's animals if you're travelling with children, as many lodges don't allow under-12s. The park's popularity means that not only are you likely to share animal sightings with other motorists, but that bookings are at a premium, particularly during South African school holidays, and that at any time of year you may have to stay in whichever camp has accommodation, rather than in your first choice. Book as far in advance as possible.
Kruger comes pretty close to fulfilling Out of Africa fantasies in the private game reserves on its western flank - where you'll get luxury accommodation and food, but more importantly (especially if this is your first safari), qualified rangers to show you the game and the bush with only a tiny group of other guests.
The ideal is to do a bit of each, perhaps spending a couple of nights in a private lodge to "get your eye in" and a further two or so exploring the public section. But whatever you choose, be sure to relax and don't get too obsessed with seeing the Big Five. Remember that wildlife doesn't imitate TV documentaries and you're most unlikely to see lion-kills (you may not see a lion at all), or huge herds of wildebeest migrating across dusty savannah. There is always an element of luck involved in what you see, and this is exactly what makes game spotting so addictive. We've outlined a few game-spotting tips , which can make a big difference to your trip.
Walking in the wild is growing in popularity and the Kruger Park, all of the private reserves and some private operators offer escorted morning game walks . There are also several three-night wilderness trails in different parts of the park, led by armed rangers - a fabulous way of getting in touch with the wilderness, but one you'll have to book months in advance.
Note that Kruger National Park is malarial .
