English/Afrikaans street names
Many towns have
bilingual street names with English and Afrikaans alternatives sometimes appearing along the same road. This applies particularly in Afrikaans areas away from the large cities, where direct translations are sometimes used.
Buses
South Africa's three established
intercity bus companies are Greyhound, Intercape and Translux; between them, they reach most towns in the country. Travel on these buses (commonly called coaches) is safe, comfortable and good value. Fares vary according to distances covered. Generally, you can expect to pay a peak fare of roughly R375 (US$30/£22) from Johannesburg to Cape Town (1434km), and a similar amount from Cape Town to Durban (1639km). Peak fares correspond approximately to school holidays, and you can expect about thirty percent off at other times.
If you plan to make several long journeys, it's worth investing in a pass . By joining Greyhound's Travel Pass (fill in the form at one of their offices), each journey you make earns you points that can eventually buy you a free bus journey. Greyhound also offers a pass that gives seven days' unlimited travel over a thirty-day period for around R950 (US$80/£55); fifteen days over thirty days for R1825 (US$150/£110); or thirty days over sixty days for R2890 (US$240/£170). At the time of writing Translux was planning a similar system of passes.
The Baz Bus operates an extremely useful hop-on/hop-off system aimed at backpackers and budget travellers. The Baz route runs up and down the coast in both directions between Cape Town and Durban. From Durban it goes to Johannesburg and Pretoria through Swaziland or via an alternative route that heads up along the Drakensberg. It picks up and drops off at backpacker accommodation, except in instances where the place is too remote - in which case the owner of the relevant backpackers' lodge generally comes to pick you up. The only drawback, apart from occasionally erratic timing, is that the people you'll meet on them will almost exclusively be other backpackers, rather than locals.
As well as the major bus companies, there is a national network of inexpensive buses , some of which are operated by Translux's sister company Transcity (sometimes called Transtate), and others operated by a host of small private companies. It's difficult to get much information about them from travel agents and tourist information offices, though Translux offers some information about the Transcity service. To find out more - and to enquire about other private company services - enquire at the main bus station the day before you travel. Apart from saving money, travelling on these buses also enables you to meet black South African travellers, who are distinctly thin on the ground on the luxury coaches.
Minibus taxis
Minibus taxis travel absolutely everywhere in South Africa, covering relatively short hops from town to town, commuter trips from township to town and back, and routes within larger towns and cities. However, the problems associated with them - unroadworthy vehicles, dangerous drivers and violent feuds between the different taxi associations competing for custom - mean that you should take local advice before using them. This is particularly true in cities, where minibus taxi ranks tend to be a magnet for petty criminals. The other problem with minibus taxis is that there is rarely much room to put luggage.
However, despite these drawbacks, don't rule out using this form of transport altogether. Without a car, minibus taxis will often be your only option for getting around in remote areas, where you're unlikely to encounter trouble. You should, however, be prepared for some long waits. Fares are very low. Try to have the exact change, and pass your fare to the row of passengers in front of you; eventually all the fares end up with the conductor, who dishes any change. There are no passes available for minibus taxis.
Trains
Travelling by train is just about the slowest way of getting around South Africa: the journey from Johannesburg to Cape Town, for example, takes 27 hours - compared to 19 hours by bus. Unless you've got a lot of time on your hands, you may be better off taking the bus, although rail travel does give you a free night's accommodation.
First- and second-class travel is in compartments equipped with washbasins and with seats that convert into bunks at night. The principal distinction between the two is that second-class cabins accommodate up to six people, while first-class takes a maximum of four, has a shower in each carriage and tends to be quieter. Coupés, which take two people in first or three people in second (although you pay for three if you want it to yourself), are ideal if you're travelling as a couple. Third-class travel isn't recommended. Seating in first and second classes is comfortable and so are the bunks, which offer the real possibility of getting a good night's sleep. If you don't have a sleeping bag, you can rent fresh cotton sheets and blankets for the night, which are brought around by a bedding attendant who'll make up your bed in the evening. It's best to buy your bedding voucher when you book your train ticket.
Spoornet ( ) runs most of the intercity rail services. Ticket prices for first-class seats are comparable to the cost of a bus journey over the same distance, with second-class compartments costing considerably less. Train tickets must be booked in advance at railway stations or at Spoornet offices in the large cities.
A word of warning about security on trains. Don't leave your valuables unattended in your compartment, unless you have some way of locking it, and make sure you close the window before you go, as thieves work the stations, especially around Gauteng. This may mean you won't want to eat in the dining car, so it's worth bringing your own food and drink, although someone usually comes round selling tea or coffee once or twice during the journey.
South Africa offers a handful of luxury trains ; these are worth considering if you want to travel in plush surroundings, often through wonderful scenery, and don't mind paying through the nose for the privilege. The celebrated Blue Train runs from Pretoria to Cape Town, and from Pretoria to Victoria Falls. The full Pretoria-Cape Town fare is around R4500 for the 29-hour journey. Passengers must be dressed in "smart casual" clothes during the day, and have to change into formal wear for the evening meal. You can reserve a seat on this popular train by booking through Blue Train's central reservations in Pretoria (tel 012 334 8459, bluetrain@transnet.co.za ).
Another luxury rail option is offered by Rovos Rail (Pretoria tel 012 315 8242; Cape Town tel 021 421 4020; ), which runs trips from Cape Town to: Pretoria for around R7500 (US$625/£440); George for R5000 (US$420/£295); or as far as Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe for R8000 (US$670/£470).
Internal flights
Flying between destinations in South Africa is an attractive option if time is short. While it's not particularly cheap, it compares favourably with the money you'll spend covering long distances in a rented car, stopping over at places en route. By far the biggest airline offering domestic flights is South African Airways (SAA) with its two associates SA Airlink and SA Express (reservations for the three go through SAA). There are a number of other smaller airlines of which the most significant are British Airways/Comair and its budget internet-based subsidiary .
Subject to availability, you can expect discounts of up to fifty percent for booking three weeks ahead. Booking through travel agents is the best idea, as they'll know of the cheapest available fares; there's little benefit shopping around different agents, as the only variation in price is going to be between airlines.
SAA and its associates have the most extensive flight network, serving the major hubs of Johannesburg, Cape Town and Durban, as well as Bloemfontein, East London, George, Kimberley, Margate, Mmabatho, Nelspruit, Phalaborwa, Pietermaritzburg, Pietersburg, Plettenberg Bay, Skukuza (Kruger National Park), Sun City, Ulundi, Umtata and Upington. As a rough guide, expect to pay just under R1500 (US$125/£90) for a one-way tourist-class fare from Johannesburg to Cape Town, or from Cape Town to Durban. The Johannesburg-Cape Town route has become particularly cheap since the arrival of , which offers one-way fares as low as R500 (US$40/£30) and has forced SAA to offer some seats at similar prices. None of the airlines offers discounts for students or pensioners.
Travellers expecting to make more than four flights in and around South Africa will save considerably with the African Explorer Pass , available on SAA and SA Express internal and regional flights. To qualify for the pass, you need an international flight to South Africa on any airline, and must quote your ticket number to your travel agent or SAA. The pass, valid for 45 days from the date of issue, gives up to sixty percent savings when you book between four and eight flights, plus you save on VAT.
Driving
South Africa is ideal for driving with a generally well-maintained network of highways and a high proportion of secondary and tertiary roads which are tarred and can be driven at speed. Some of the most interesting places off the beaten track are only accessible in your own vehicle, as buses tend to ply only the major routes. Short of joining a tour, the only way to get to national parks and remoter coastal areas is by car. The only real challenge you'll face on the roads is other drivers .
Renting a vehicle is not prohibitively expensive. In a small group, it can work out a cheap option, allowing you to explore areas in depth and at your own pace.
The usual fuel in coastal areas is 97 and 93 octane on the highveld, with most filling stations also offering unleaded .
Filling stations are frequent on the major routes of the country, and usually open 24 hours a day, so it's hard to run out of fuel. Off the major routes, though, stations are less frequent, so do fill up regularly if you're on a long journey. Stations are rarely self-service; instead, poorly paid attendants fill up your car, check oil, water and tyre pressure if you ask them to, and often clean your windscreen even if you don't. A tip is always appreciated, though not obligatory.
Cycling
It's easy to see why cycling is popular in South Africa: you can get to stunning destinations on good roads unclogged by traffic, and many towns have decent cycle shops for spares and equipment. You'll need to be fit though, as South Africa is a hilly place, and many roads have punishing gradients. The weather can make life difficult too: if it isn't raining, there is a good chance of it being very hot, so carry plenty of liquids. An increasing number of backpacker hostels rent out mountain bikes for reasonable rates, making it easy to do plenty of cycling without having to transport your bike into the country. Cycling on the main roads is not recommended.
Hitching
Generally speaking, hitching in most areas of South Africa is not a good idea, particularly in large towns and cities. Even in rural areas it's risky and, while you might encounter wonderful hospitality and interesting companions, it's advisable not to hitch at all.
If you must hitchhike, it's essential to take a number of precautions to maximize your safety. Avoid hitching alone, and being dropped off in isolated areas between dorps . Ask drivers where they are going before you say where you want to go, and keep your bags with you: having them locked in the boot makes a hasty escape more difficult. Check the notice boards in backpacker lodges for people offering or looking to share lifts - that way, you can meet the driver in advance.