TEMARA VILLE has an old kasbah , dating from Moulay Ismail's reign. Other than that, there's little else to delay you, unless you want to stock up for picnics on the beach or the campsites further south. TEMARA PLAGE consists of several sandy strips, plus a cluster of discos that provide a summer alternative to the lack of action in Rabat. Few people stay here overnight, other than the well-heeled of Rabat, who maintain summer villas. However, if you want a beach base for Rabat, there are three hotels . The Hôtel La Felouque (tel 03/774 4388, fax 774 4565; 400-800dh), by the main beach, known locally as Plage Les Sables d'Or, has a swimming pool, tennis courts and a well-regarded restaurant , Les Sables d'Or . Better value for money is the Hôtel Panorama (tel 03/774 4289, fax 774 4819; 200-400dh), whose terrace overlooks the beach; the staff are friendly, and there is some attempt to maintain lawns and gardens. A third option is the Hôtel St Germain en Laye (tel 03/774 4230, fax 774 4850; 200-400dh); it's cheaper than La Felouque , and there are discounts out of season.

 

Back on the coastal road, there is a good restaurant , the San Francisco , built by a Moroccan returned from thirty years in California, and decorated with a full-size Ford Mustang bursting through the bar mirror.