Although it's now essentially a suburb of Rabat,
SALÉ was the pre-eminent of the two right through the Middle Ages, from the decline of the Almohads to the uneasy alliance in the pirate republic of Bou Regreg. Under the Merenids, in particular, it was a port of some stature, and endowed as such, the most notable survival of these times being its superb
Medersa Bou Inan - a monument to rival the best of those of Rabat.
In the last century, following the French creation of a capital in Rabat, and the emergence of Casablanca as Morocco's great port, Salé passed into a backwater role. The original Ville Nouvelle, as developed during the Protectorate, was restricted to a small area around the bus station and the northern gates. But, more recently, Salé has spread inland and alongside the main road north towards Kenitra. The increased Salé-Rabat traffic has called for an additional road bridge over the Bou Regreg and new train station. Nevertheless, Salé still looks and feels very distinct from Rabat, particularly within its medieval walls where the souks and life remain surprisingly traditional.
From Rabat you can cross the river to Salé by rowing boat , or take a bus (#6 or #12) from Boulevard Hassan II. The boats charge 5dh per person and drop you close to the Salé beach; from here it's a steep walk up to Bab Bou Haja , one of the main town gates. Both buses drop you at an open terminal just outside the town's principal gate, Bab Mrisa .
Salé has a basic but well-managed campsite : Camping de la Plage (tel 03/784 4566; open all year), near the beach, but the only hotel , the Saadiens , has closed. Unless you want to use the campsite as a base for Rabat, there seems little reason to stay. In the evenings, you can eat reasonably at one of the many cafés along Rue Kechachin, but the streets empty even earlier than those in Rabat.
