Capital of the nation since independence - and, before that, from 1912 to 1956, of the French Protectorate - RABAT is in many ways the city you'd expect: elegant in its spacious European grid, slightly self-conscious in its civilized modern ways, and, as an administrative centre, a little bit dull. If you arrive during Ramadan, you'll find the main avenues and boulevards an astonishing night-long promenade - at other times, it's hard to find a café open past ten at night. Rabat, as they tell you in Casa, is provincial.

 

None of this makes any difference to the considerable historic and architectural interest in the city - and across the estuary in Salé - which includes some of the finest and oldest Arab monuments in the country, dating from the Almohad and Merenid dynasties. You can spend an enjoyable few days looking round these, and out on the local beaches, and there is a major plus in that, unlike Fes or Marrakesh, you can get round the place quite happily without a guide, and talk in cafés with people who do not depend on tourist money.