MOULAY BOUSSELHAM , 55km from Ksar El Kebir, is a very low-key resort, popular almost exclusively with Moroccans. It comprises little more than a single street, crowded with grill-cafés and sloping down to the sea at the side of a broad lagoon and wetland area, known as
Merdja Zerga . This is one of northern Morocco's prime
bird-watching locations, and any foreign visitor will be encouraged to see the lagoon's flamingo and other bird colonies in one of the locals' fishing boats. The
beach itself is sheltered by cliffs - rare along the Atlantic - and has an abrupt drop-off, which creates a continual crash of breaking waves. While a lot of fun for swimming, the currents can be highly dangerous and the beach is strictly patrolled by lifeguards. Take care.
For Moroccans, the village is part summer resort, part pilgrimage centre. The saint from which the village takes its name, the Marabout Moulay Bousselham , was a tenth-century Egyptian, whose remains are housed in a koubba prominently positioned above the settlement. In July this sees one of the largest moussems in the region.