Flights
Royal Air Maroc (RAM) operates domestic flights from their Casablanca hub to major cities nationwide, as does domestic rival Regional Air Lines . Between any other two points, however, you will have to change planes at Casablanca, unless both points are stops on a single Casa-bound flight (Dakhla to Agadir, for example). In general, flying is not really worthwhile except for long-distance routes such as to Laayoune or Dakhla in the Western Sahara, when they can save you a lot of time. A flight from Casablanca to Laayoune would set you back 1480dh (£92.50/$148) and take just over an hour and a half (plus journey time to the airport and check-in time), compared to nineteen hours by bus. If you're very pressed for time, you might want to use the services between Casablanca and places like Agadir or even Oujda. On shorter routes, the speed of a flight is counterbalanced by factors such as the price, the time taken travelling between airports and town centres, and the relative infrequency of flights compared to buses.

A summary of flights available is given in the "Travel Details" sections, along with details of train and bus services. RAM offices are detailed in the "Listings" or "Practicalities" sections for each major town. The airlines can also be contacted through their head office and reservation centres at Casablanca airport (RAM tel 0900 0800; Regional Air Lines tel 02/253 8080). RAM also has a Web site at www.royalairmaroc.com Remember that you must always confirm flights at a RAM office 72 hours before departure. Student and under-26 youth discounts of 25 percent are available on all RAM domestic flights but only if the ticket is bought in advance from one of their offices.

Trains
Trains cover a limited network of routes, but for travel between the major cities they are easily the best option - reliable, comfortable, efficient and fairly fast.

There are basically two lines which carry passengers: from Tangier in the north down to Marrakesh, and from Oujda in the northeast, also to Marrakesh, joining with the Tangier line at Sidi Kacem. There are plans to extend the railway south to Agadir, and on to Laayoune in the Western Sahara, but it's anyone's guess when that project will reach fruition. Schedules change very little from year to year, but it's wise to check times in advance at stations. Timetables , printed by ONCF, the national railway company, are usually available at major train stations and tourist offices - if they don't have a full timetable at the station, they'll print you off a mini-timetable of services between any two stations. You can also check schedules and fares on the ONCF Web site at www.oncf.org.ma

There are two classes of tickets - first and second. Costs for a second-class ticket are slightly more than what you'd pay for buses; on certain "express" services ("express" refers to the level of comfort rather than the speed), they are around thirty percent higher. In addition, there are couchettes (50dh extra) available on the Tangier-Marrakesh and Tangier-Oujda night trains; these are worth the money for the sake of security, as passengers are locked into a carriage with a guard. If you intend to use the railways a lot, it might just about be worth your while buying a "EuroDomino" or "Freedom Pass". These are available from youth travel agencies and international rail travel centres in the British Isles or North America (Wasteels or RailEurope for example), and give three to eight days' free travel on Moroccan railways for £23-53/$33-77 (£22-48/$31-75 for under-26s) in second class, or £31-71/$45-103 in first.

Most of the stations are located reasonably close to the modern city centres, in the French-built quarters - the Villes Nouvelles. They generally have left luggage depots, though these accept only luggage that can be locked (effectively excluding rucksacks). An alternative is usually provided by nearby cafés, who will look after your luggage for a small tip.

Fares
Fares for train, bus and grand taxi journeys follow a reasonably consistent pattern.

For bus journeys, reckon on around 1.50-2.50dh for each 10km.

For trains , expect to pay around 3dh per 10km in second class, depending on the train.

Grands taxis charge around 2-4dh per person for each 10km. Fares tend to be lower for more popular routes, when the taxi will get passengers more quickly, and higher for routes where the taxi needs to wait a long time for passengers before setting off. Chartering a taxi for yourself or a group, you will have to pay for six places.

For comparison , on the Marrakesh to Casablanca route, a train will take three hours and cost 73dh second class/100dh first class on an "express" (seven out of eight services), or 56dh/84dh on the single daily "ordinary" train. A CTM bus will cost 65dh and take three and a half hours, while an ordinary bus will cost 34dh and take around four. A shared grand taxi will cost 80dh and take two and a half hours (though on most routes in fact the difference between grand taxi and ordinary bus fares is a good deal less).

Grands taxis
Collective grands taxis are one of the best features of Moroccan transport. They operate on a wide variety of routes, are much quicker than buses (usually quicker than trains, too), and fares are very reasonable. They are also a good way of meeting people and having impromptu Arabic lessons.

The taxis are usually big Peugeot or Mercedes cars carrying six passengers (Peugeots are less common but have a slightly less cramped seating arrangement). Most business is along specific routes, and the most popular routes have more or less continuous departures throughout the day. Consequently, you don't have to worry about timetables. You just show up at the terminal (locations are detailed, city by city, in the guide) and ask for a place to a specific destination. As soon as six (or, if you're willing to pay extra, four or five) people are assembled, the taxi sets off. Make sure, however, when asking about grands taxis, that it is clear you only want a place ( une place ) in a collective taxi ( collectif ), as drivers often "presume" that a tourist will want to charter the whole taxi, which means paying for all six places.

Most collective grands taxis run over a fairly short route, from one large town to the next. If you want to travel further, you will have to change taxis from time to time. Some routes are covered routinely in stages (eg Agadir-Taroudannt, or Agadir-Taliouine) and taxi drivers will generally assist you in finding a connecting taxi and in settling the fare with the driver. Picking up a grand taxi on the road is much more problematic, since they will only stop if they have a place free (if a passenger has already alighted in other words).

Fares for set routes are fixed, and drivers do not usually try to overcharge tourists for a place. If you think that you are being overcharged, ask the other passengers, or check the price with your hotel before leaving. Occasionally, five passengers may agree to split the cost of the last place to hasten departure, or one passenger may agree to pay for two places. You will normally be expected to pay the full fare for the journey even if travelling only part of the way.

If you want to take a non-standard route , or an excursion, it is possible to charter a whole grand taxi ( une course ). In theory this should be exactly six times the price of a place in a shared taxi, but you'll often have to bargain hard to get that. Hotels can sometimes be useful in helping to charter grands taxis.

Some people consider grands taxis dangerous . It is certainly true that they are prone to practices such as speeding, and overtaking on blind curves or the brows of hills, and they have more than their fair share of accidents. Drivers may work all day and into the night, and it seems a large number of accidents involve grand taxi drivers falling asleep at the wheel while driving at night, so you may wish to avoid using them for night-time journeys. Note also that with the seating arrangements, it is not usually possible to wear a seat belt.

Buses
Bus travel is marginally cheaper than taking a grand taxi, and there are far more regular routes . Travelling on public transport for any length of time in Morocco, you are likely to make considerable use of the various networks.

Grands taxis are likely to do a journey in about two thirds of the time a bus would take (though CTM now run a few nonstop express buses). Buses, on the other hand are safer and more comfortable, though on some older buses legroom is extremely limited and long journeys can be rather an endurance test for anyone approaching six feet or more in height. In summer, it can be worthwhile taking night buses on the longer journeys. Though still not very comfortable, many long-distance buses run at night and they are both quicker and cooler. Although most buses are fitted with reading lights these are invariably turned off, so you will not be able to read on buses after dark.

When travelling during the day, especially in summer, it pays to sit on the side away from the sun . Travelling from north to south, this means sitting on the right in the morning, on the left in the afternoon, vice-versa if going the other way. Travelling from east to west, sit on the right, or on the left if going from west to east. Note too, especially on rural services, that some passengers may be unused to road travel and a lot of people may vomit on the journey.

Police checks on travel
Police checks take place on travellers throughout the country. They come in three forms. One is a check on local transport; European cars, or rental cars, are usually waved through. Buses (other than CTM services) are much more likely to be stopped,...
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Trucks and hitching
In the countryside, where buses may be sporadic or even nonexistent, it is standard practice for vans and lorries ( camions ), pick-up trucks ( camionettes ) and transit-vans ( ...
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Driving
There are few real problems driving in Morocco, but be aware that accident rates are high - in large part because much of the population is not yet tuned in to looking out for motorized vehicles. You should treat all pedestrians with the...
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Motorbiking in Morocco
Each year an increasing number of motorcyclists travel to Morocco and find that it has all the major attractions sought by the enthusiast. The first choice to make when planning a trip is between going with an escorted group or on an independent journey. If you have never taken a bike abroad before and want to go to Morocco, seriously consider the group option. For those on their own, we've given some practical tips to help organize a trip.

Cycling
Cycling - and particularly mountain biking - is becoming an increasingly popular pursuit for Western travellers to Morocco. The country's regular roads are well maintained and by European standards very quiet, while the extensive network...
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City transport
You'll spend most time exploring Moroccan cities on foot. The alleys of the old Medina quarters, where the sights and souks are to be found, will rarely accommodate more than a donkey. In the newer quarters, you may want to make use of city taxis and...
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