The first town south of Tangier - and first stop on the train line - ASILAH is one of the most elegant of the old Portuguese Atlantic ports, ranking with El Jadida and Essaouira to the south of Casablanca, and is small, easy to manage, and exceptionally clean. First impressions are of wonderful square stone ramparts, flanked by palms, and an outstanding beach - an immense sweep of sand stretching to the north halfway to Tangier. Further exploration reveals the Medina, which is one of the most attractive in the country, colourwashed at every turn, and with a series of murals painted for the town's International Festival . The first International Festival was in 1978 and it has been held most years since. It always takes place in August and runs for three to four weeks, with a programme usually including art, dance, film, music and poetry, attracting performers from around the world.