Lesotho has a good tarred road network , though you can't avoid dirt roads when heading to more out-of-the-way places of interest. Wherever you travel, however, and especially when you make for the Highlands, twisting roads, fast minibus taxis and frequent encounters with road-side pedestrians and livestock make driving here tiring work. Of the main roads, the northern route is a continuous tarred road leading north from Maseru to Mokhotlong; the road to Sani from Mokhotlong is untarred but can be negotiated in a saloon car; and while the fearsome Sani Pass itself can be tackled in a saloon car by a good driver in good conditions, you should only consider doing it with a 4WD. Striking off the northern route, the Katse dam road from Hlotse is tarred and of very high quality, though it involves some punishing gradients. On the central route , the tar extends for a way beyond the site of the new Mohale Dam around Likalaneng, and then reverts to dirt and gravel as far as Thaba Tseka. The high-altitude route from here to Katse is also only for 4WD vehicles, although minibus taxis will tackle it. The southern route from Maseru is tarred as far as Mphaki, but is passable in an ordinary saloon car up to Qacha's Nek. The road to Sehlabathebe National Park is just about impassable without a 4WD, though again minibus taxis and buses somehow manage it.

 

If you've rented a car in South Africa, make sure the insurance covers you for travel in Lesotho. Some companies are reluctant to do this, because of the condition of many of the roads. Fuel costs roughly the same in Lesotho as it does in South Africa. The speed limit is 80kph, and 50kph in urban areas.

Public transport covers Lesotho well. Buses are slower but safer than minibus taxis , but they are both very inexpensive. Timetables do not exist as such; the rule of thumb is to check the day before, and get to the bus station early if you have a long way to go, as long-distance transport usually leaves around 6am. If you're travelling short distances on the main tar and dirt roads, you shouldn't have to wait too long for a minibus taxi going your way.

Hitching is much safer in Lesotho than in South Africa and is a good way to get around. Some drivers expect payment, so you should negotiate this before you've travelled too far.

For internal flights you can charter planes out of the old Maseru airport through Mission Aviation Fellowship based in Maseru (tel 31 3640) which charges around M1600 per hour for planes that can carry four to five people; single seats are also sometimes available for less if the planes are flying anyway on a training flight or to drop off people or supplies.