The road from Roma to Semonkong is one of the most spectacular in Lesotho, with superb views as you climb into the Highlands. Where the tarred road turns to gravel at Moitsupeli, look ahead towards the twin summits of the appropriately named Thabana liMele (Breast Mountains). The northern summit is climbable without special equipment, if you can find the cleft on its northern side. Just park at the next village of Ha Dinzulu , let people know where you are going, cross the Makhalaneng River and make your way up as far as you can. If you make it to the top, it's about seven hours there and back.

 

The road from Ha Dinzulu continues to climb, peaking at 2000m on Nkesi's Pass and then dropping down to the village of Ramabanta; here you can cross the Makhalaneng River and then drive up to 3000m by Thaba Putsoa itself, before descending gently to the curiously straggly town of SEMONKONG . Inhabited only by the San until the 1880s, Semonkong began life after the Gun War as a refuge for displaced Sotho from the lowlands. The town offers a few basic stores, plenty of bars stocking a remarkable selection of beers and ciders, and even a post office and bank, though you can't rely on either for vital business. The roads in town are bad but not impassable, and it's worth going to the ubiquitous Fraser's Store just to check out the Wild West-style clientele, dressed mostly in blankets and gumboots, with their ponies hitched to a post at the entrance. If you're here in winter, try to catch the local horse races on the last weekend of every month.