Ponies were introduced to Lesotho from the Cape in the nineteenth century, with one of the first given as a present to King Moshoeshoe I by chief Moorosi in 1829. Moshoeshoe learnt to ride that year, and rapidly acquired further steeds, which he distributed to his family and followers. By the time of Moshoeshoe's death in 1870, ponies were widespread throughout the kingdom and the Sotho had become expert riders.

 

Lesotho's ponies are famously hardy, capable of slogging away for hours and negotiating slippery rock passes. The Sotho rarely groom their ponies, so they usually look pretty dishevelled, but that doesn't affect their performance in the hills, where for many locals they are the only form of long-distance transport.

A number of lodges offer pony trekking, for which no previous experience at all is needed. However, only a few are well-organized, with guides, routes and places to stay worked out in advance. Among the best places are the Basotho Pony Trekking Centre (tel 31 7284), Malealea Lodge (tel 051 447 3200), and the Semonkong Lodge (tel 051 933 3106). You might also consider trying the Trading Post Guest House (tel 34 0202) in Roma, the Molumong Lodge (tel 033 355 1141) near Mokhotlong, and the Mount Maluti Hotel (tel 78 5224) in Mohale's Hoek.

Of the three most professional outfits, the Basotho Pony Trekking Centre is cheapest, at around M100 for a day ride, although there are reports of declining standards. At Malealea and Semonkong , a close watch is kept on the standard of both ponies and guides, which cost around M120 a day. One way to decide which place to go for is to first choose what kind of countryside you want to trek in. Semonkong, Mokhotlong and the area around the Basotho Pony Trekking Centre are all high up, above the sandstone and into the basalt; most of the others are lower down, where weather conditions are usually less variable for you, though the terrain is harder on the ponies.

Wherever you go, make sure you bring a wide-brimmed sunhat, sun protection cream and waterproof gear, and, if you are staying somewhere overnight, a sleeping bag and mat, food, and something to cook it on. A luxury, but one you'll definitely appreciate, is some kind of balm to ease your aching limbs and buttocks, which will certainly be sore after a day's trekking, even if you are used to riding