Shortly after rounding Thaba Moorosi, the main road leaves the Senqu River, and heads swiftly into the Highlands through the impressive Quthing Gorge , peaking after about 10km at the Lebelonyane Pass (2456m), with superb views. The road carries on through a series of attractive high-altitude valleys, before reaching the small village of MPHAKI , which has excellent accommodation at the Farmers' Training Centre (R100-150), which offers well-equipped self-catering rondavels and a pleasant guesthouse. If you don't fancy self-catering, the Motsekuoa Liquor Restaurant opposite the centre provides inexpensive and tasty Sotho food as well as a good bar.

 

The tarred road continues for another 10km out of Mphaki, where it reverts to decent gravel. You'll find some San caves a short hike off the road a few kilometres further on at Seforong , just before Sekake , though - unusually - they don't have rock paintings. At Sekake you can camp or stay at the atmospheric Christian Council of Churches Mission, a kilometre or so along a rocky track that leaves the main road at the Hotline Restaurant .