Not far from the Caledonspoort border post (daily 6am-10pm), and the last major town before the Highlands, BUTHA-BUTHE has a frontier feel. The main road is clustered with takeaway restaurants and stores, and the pavements are filled with Highlanders here for their monthly shopping trip. The town was founded in 1884 because the local chief refused to go to Hlotse to pay taxes, necessitating a new tax centre nearer his residence. Butha-Buthe attracted traders from the outset, and is one of the few towns in Lesotho with a sizeable Indian community.

 

The Butha-Buthe (Lie Down) Mountain, just north of town, is where Moshoeshoe I had his first stronghold before retreating to Thaba Bosiu in 1824. Though a stiff climb, it's not too difficult to ascend, which was one of the reasons the king felt obliged to move. The summit provides tremendous views of the surrounding area. Seven kilometres north of town on the Main Road is a turn-off the Sekubu Caves , another 9km away down a dirt track. They're worth a look if you have the time; guides will point out some pretty good rock paintings, but rather faint dinosaur footprints .