In terms of the vastness of the north, the Mathews Range is virtually on Maralal's doorstep. The range, most of which is a forest reserve, is impressively wild hill country, with Mathew Peak (Ol Doinyo Lenkiyio) rising to 2375m. Lower down, the mountains are heavily cloaked in forest and thick bush; unusual vegetation includes "living fossil" cycad plants, giant cedars and podocarpus. Among the animal life, you can look out for (but shouldn't expect to meet) small numbers of black rhinos - every one of them known and tracked, for its own safety, by forest guards and their Samburu staff - and really outstanding butterflies. This is first-rate walking and exploring country for hardy travellers, but you need to be fully self-sufficient, which includes having all your food requirements.

 

First target is WAMBA , a one-street town 5km off the C78/79 highway, roughly midway between Maralal and Isiolo. You can get the odd matatu here from Maralal, or use the Babie Coach which passes by the Wamba turning just after midday (heading out from Maralal one day, coming back from Isiolo the next). Wamba's main focus is its large, modern Catholic hospital outside town. Saudia Lodge (under Ksh500), in town, is pretty well the only B&L , with clean, pleasant and very cheap rooms. There are a few dukas , though they have no fuel and little in the way of fresh food, only basic fruit or veg. You might try Imani Bar & Restaurant which serves the usual limited range of stews and a reasonable githeri .

The big mountain you can see outside town (9km to the peak as the crow flies) is Warges . Guides from Wamba will take you up there, though they'll stress how full of wild animals it is and how much their lives (not yours of course) are at risk. If you have a serious interest in witchcraft, one of Kenya's most respected witch doctors lives in the shadow of the mountain. Forget the town guide - he is resolutely not a tourist attraction. Instead, make discreet enquiries with the Kenya Wildlife Service rangers who regularly pass through Wamba, or else, if your Maa is good enough, with one of the young Samburu morani , but make sure you are accompanied by someone who really knows the place.