Kenya's Rift Valley is only part of a continental fault system that runs 6000km clean across Africa from Jordan to Mozambique. Perhaps Kenya's most important topographical feature, it is certainly one of the country's great distinguishing marks, acting as both a human and natural divide. As such, it has come to be seen as a monumental valley of teeming game and Maasai herders, a trough of grasslands older than humanity. This image is not entirely borne out by reality. The valley certainly is spectacular, a literal rift across the country, with all the stunning panoramas and gaunt escarpment backdrops you could wish for, and the plains animals are still abundant in places. Nevertheless, much of the game has been dispersed by human population pressure onto the higher plateaus to the southwest, and most of the Maasai nowadays live further south.

 

At least the Rift Valley's historical influence cannot be diluted. People have trekked down it, generation after generation, over perhaps the last two or three thousand years, from the wetlands of southern Sudan and the Ethiopian highlands. Some of these immigrants were the ancestors of the Maasai , who dominated much of the valley and its surroundings for several centuries before the Europeans arrived. Until the beginning of the twentieth century, they lived on both sides, and the northern Ilaikipiak group were a constant threat to caravans coming up from the coast. With European settlement, they were forced from their former grazing grounds in the valley's turbulent bottleneck and confined to the "Southern Reserve" for much of the colonial era. Although many have now returned to the valley, and many towns retain their ancient Maa names, the Maasai are at their most conservative and traditional in southern Kenya.

In practical terms, the part of the Rift Valley we've covered offers several exceptional lakes , a couple of excellent fast roads, lots of spectacular twisting tracks, and some of the wildest country in central Kenya. If you're at all interested in wildlife, especially birds, you'll find it a source of endless fascination, with a wonderful nature reserve at lake Bogoria , and freshwater ecosystems at Naivasha and Baringo .

Apart from Naivasha and the string of towns up the western escarpment, the area we've covered contains few places larger than a village; lodgings, strictly speaking, are scarce. Though there is usually somewhere to lay your head, this is a region where a tent will be worth its extra weight, and good walking shoes are a definite advantage. Transport in the higher, agricultural parts of the south is generally fine, but northwards, or off the main Nakuru-Baringo-Kabarnet axis, you can expect long waits, next-to-no buses and infrequent matatus. For drivers , the roads are steadily improving in this region, thanks in part to presidential favours earned: the B4 up to Baringo is superb. Note that the northern Rift is lower - and consequently hotter - than most up-country regions, so be prepared for some very high temperatures and don't underestimate your water requirements.