MTWAPA itself is in many ways the most pleasant of the main-road settlements, with a more established feel than Bombolulu, and a more ordinary Kenyan atmosphere. There are several fairly rudimentary hotels , which are cheaper if you check in after 4pm and leave by 10am (you pay for the night only, as opposed to the day and night). The best is Sweet Heart Lodge , east of the main road, just north of the market (PO Box 82716 Mombasa tel 011/485456; Ksh500-1000). Also clean and well-kept is the Kamanjiro Super Guest House , on the east side of the main road about 600m north of the bridge (PO Box 2021 Mombasa tel 0733/824633; Ksh500-1000). If you need something cheaper, the rather down-at-heel Glasther Guest House (tel 011/485853; under Ksh500) lies down a turning on the west side of the main road, directly opposite the one that leads to the Sweet Heart .

 

The main reasons to pause in Mtwapa are boats and big fish : the creek is fast becoming a focus for yachties and game fishermen. Day-long dhow trips (with snorkelling opportunities, and the $60 fee includes a trip up Mtwapa Creek and lunch at their Aquamarine Restaurant ) are run most days (except Sun) by Kenya Marineland (PO Box 70 Mtwapa tel 011/485248 or 485866, fax 485265, ), leaving their jetty at around 9.30am; turn right at the signboard in Mtwapa 550m north of the bridge, and head along the dirt track for 1.5km, or ring ahead to get picked up from your hotel (free). There's also a 350,000-litre aquarium here (Ksh200, including entry to the obligatory reptile and snake park), and a "Maasai Village" for die-hard tourists.

For food , the pleasant makuti -roofed Casuarina Nomad , 300m north of the bridge on the right, has delicious chargrilled meat and seafood. Also good are Chicken Banda further up on the east side of the main road, and Fayaz across the street a little further. Muscat Dishes , at the northern end of the village, serves tasty Swahili dishes, nyama choma and curries. For upmarket eats, the floating Moorings Restaurant is in a fine, breezy location on the north side of the creek, accessible down a track left 300m after the bridge, and has a mainly seafood menu (Tues-Sun 10am-11pm; tel 072/411812; main courses Ksh300-600) and reasonably priced drinks. It's a good place for talk and tales - and to hook up with others, either in person or via the notice board. Similarly stylish, but on dry land, is the excellent Claudio's Italian Restaurant , 600m beyond Kenya Marineland, which has wonderful views of the creek as it meets the ocean (dinner daily, lunch Wed-Sun; tel 011/485368; around Ksh1000). Aquamarine at Kenya Marineland itself is overpriced, at getting on for Ksh2000 a meal. For nightlife , there's a large number of ever-changing disco and live music venues, which rise and fall according to the fashion of the day: just ask around. More dependable are the discos at Casuarina Nomad (daily 5pm-6am), which usually feature "cocktails" of traditional dancers at weekends, and the more clubbish Workshop , overlooking Moorings Restaurant on the creekside (Wednesday, Friday and Saturday) that switches on when Moorings switches off, around 11pm.