Arriving in Mombasa by plane or train in the morning, there's ample time, if the heat doesn't fell you, to head straight out to the beaches. But you should consider spending a day or two in Mombasa itself, tuning in to the coast (and to Kenya if you've just jetted in), catching the cadences of "Kiswahili safi " (pure Swahili) and looking around Kenya's most historic city. If you have time, there are two worthwhile trips you can make inland to areas that are much less known: Shimba Hills National Park to the southwest and, well off the beaten path to the northwest, the Mijikenda country between Mazeras and Kaloleni. If you would rather take this latter detour before reaching the coast proper - and it's a pleasant introduction to the region - buses from Nairobi can drop you at Mazeras , a simple hitchhike or bus ride away from Mombasa.

 

Mombasa island has no proper beaches of its own. The nearest are Shelly Beach and Nyali Beach . Shelly Beach is relatively uninteresting and narrow, with the reef close to the shore, but fairly peaceful. Nyali is pretty good, crowded at weekends and holidays, and the reef here is much further out. There are several public points of access to Nyali Beach, but the easiest is right by the entrance to the Nyali Beach Hotel . Most of the time, hotels don't mind if you use their own beaches, bars and restaurants.