MIGORI , down near the Tanzanian border, is basically an ever-expanding roadstead, spread out along 4km of the A1 highway. The main centre of activity seems to be the hospital, where the doctors are adept at treating arrow wounds inflicted during land skirmishes between Gusii, Maasai, Kipsigis and the new Kikuyu settlers. Market days are interesting for the variety of peoples and for traditional activities untainted by tourism. The Maasai people here are far less calculating and aloof than many of those further to the east whose lives have been invaded by cameras and minibuses, but you're likely to be the object of some curiosity. There are two good places to stay , but water supplies are sporadic, and even cold water may not be available on tap. Turn eastward just north of the bridge by Agip for Gilly Hotel (PO Box 831 Suna-Migori tel 0387/20523, fax 20556; B&B Ksh500-1000). Ignore the bland concrete exterior, as the welcome is warm, and rooms are very reasonable s/c with nets, the better ones with distant views of the river, and with good breakfasts, but try to get a room with an outside window, and don't believe tales of 24-hour hot water. Girango Hotel , at the south end of town (PO Box 1019 Suna-Migori tel 0387/20608; B&B Ksh500-1000), is friendly, quiet and peaceful, with rooms in a number of outhouses scattered in pleasant gardens (guarded parking). There's a choice of different rooms, and the better ones are definitely worth the extra fifty bob they cost. Hot water is provided in buckets, and there are tubs rather than showers. There's a popular bar, and a licence for weekend discos has been applied for. If you need something cheaper, there are a few B&Ls around the matatu stand, and north of the bridge, such as the Highway Lodge opposite the post office (PO Box 79 Suna-Migori tel 0387/20387). For food , the Exile Chis Palace is the best of the hotelis just north of the post office, serving good, wholesome Kenyan staples. Also worth a mention for food, if only for its weirdness, is Njiri's Bar & Restaurant , a bizarre mock-Victorian castellated folly, 2km before Migori. Migori is not known for its nightlife , but the Resort Club , west of the main road just north of the bridge plays ndombolo music most nights.

 

If you've just arrived from Tanzania , there are "direct" (though not non-stop) buses to Nairobi and Mombasa leaving between 6am and 8am, or in the evening, going via Kisii, Kericho and Nakuru. Kenya Bus, Mombasa Liners, Linear and Universal have offices opposite the matatu stage. There are also direct buses to Eldoret in the morning only. Matatus serve Kisumu, Kisii and Homa Bay, with Peugeots to Karungu. Heading down to Tanzania , there are direct buses to Mwanza mornings and evenings, but otherwise you'll have to take a matatu to the border post at Isebania (also called Sirare), or at Kianja, cross on foot and take an onward vehicle from the other side. Lastly, if you're driving, you could consider taking the unsurfaced C13, 4km south of Migori, east into Maasai Mara , signposted Kehancha, but the road is in a pretty dreadful state, and especially prone to degradation caused by rains, so should only be attempted in 4WD, and then only in dry weather (the clay gets treacherous when wet).