Taking the Likoni ferry (matatus from the post office on Digo Road) makes the sense of separation from Mombasa more immediate than crossing the bridges heading out of the city to the north. More pragmatically, the lack of a bridge has deterred developers and contributed to the South Coast's fairly late arrival in the tour brochures (though Diani is certainly making up for lost time). The ferries (free for foot passengers, Ksh35 for cars) operate around the clock (every 15min, 4am-1am; every hour, 1am-4am). Beware of pickpockets here: keep your hands free, don't shake hands, and ensure money belts are secure and can't be cut off from behind.

 

LIKONI itself is a busy creekside suburb of Mombasa, straggling down the southbound road for a good 3km. A coast road runs off around the headland to the east, served by infrequent matatus, but Shelly Beach - named after its shells - is narrow and has large patches of exposed coral rag rock (bring rubber- or plastic-soled sandals), and tends to be strewn with seaweed, while the sea here is only feasible for swimming at high tide. Unless you're booked into a hotel already, hop on a bus or matatu and make for Tiwi or Diani. Apart from a host of very local (if rough-looking) eateries and good streetfood at Likoni ferry, the only real restaurant is the excellent Island Paradise Bar & Restaurant , next to ACK Guest House , whose tilapia, oddly enough (it's from Lake Victoria, not the Indian Ocean), is very good. For nightlife , there are two clubs: Jack City , to the right as you get off the ferry and The Office at the start of the road to Shelly Beach. Be warned, however, that both of these places can be pretty rough after nightfall, with thefts common and stabbings not unknown.