Though Ferguson's Gulf is the only easily accessible place to head for on the lakeshore, the village you want initially is called KALOKOL (formerly known as Lokwar Kangole). There are several matatus making the trip daily from Lodwar; if you're hitching, try the Kobil station or wait further up along the road.

 

There's little point in visiting Kalokol for its own sake. It has a surprising amount of hassle for such a small place (600 or so permanent inhabitants), and only one basic lodging , Kalokol Tours Lodge & Hotel (PO Box 3 tel 18 Kalokol; under Ksh500), which is overrun by irritating wannabe guides. It does, however, have space to pitch a tent (Ksh50) and also offers camel safaris (the catch being that you have to buy the camel, only to resell it later at half the price). Unless you're a seasoned bargainer, you can forget their offers of boat trips, as the prices are ridiculously high - far better to enquire with the fishermen on the lakeshore proper, 4km to the east.

While food supplies have improved a little with the opening of a few dukas , Kalokol doesn't have a lot in this line and it's not a bad idea to bring at least some fruit with you from Kitale or Lodwar. Water supplies, too, are erratic, and iodine or purifying tablets are essential. Skyways Hotel serves good meals and has the edge over Kalokol Tours Lodge & Hotel , whose menu is mostly wishful thinking.

The village is especially good for buying Turkana crafts and souvenirs: wonderful (and far too big) baskets, sharp wrist knives and finger knives, rich-smelling, oiled head stools, ostrich shell necklaces, and a whole array of snuff and tobacco horns made of cowhorn (traditionally) or pieces of plastic piping. When you've had enough, transport of one sort or another usually leaves at midnight for Kitale, and a number of matatus leave throughout the day for Lodwar.