AIRLINES Air France, 5 al-Zahra (tel 628 2536); Arkia, 8 Shlomzion HaMalka (tel 625 5888); British Airways, 2 Abu Obeida (tel 628 8654); El Al, 12 Hillel (tel 624 5725); KLM and Alitalia, 8 al-Zahra (tel 628 4896); Lufthansa, 16 King George St (tel 624 4941); Olympic, 33 Jaffa Rd (tel 623 4538); SAA c/o BBA, 8 Shamai (tel 623 2299); SAS and Iberia, c/o Daher Travel, 15 al-Zahra (tel 628 3235); Tower Air, 31 HaNeviim (tel 625 0255); TWA, 34 Ben Yehuda (tel 624 1576).
BANKS AND EXCHANGE Most banks (Sun, Tues & Thurs 8.30am-12.30pm & 4-5.30pm, Mon, Wed & Fri 8.30am-12.30pm) are located around Zion Square on Jaffa Rd, or Ben Yehuda, King George and Hillel streets; changing money here is slow, with few currencies accepted and high rates. You can change US, sterling and some European currency bills for low rates at the 24-hour automatic change machine at the United Mizrahi Bank, on the corner of Tiferet Israel St and Hurva Square, in the Jewish Quarter. There are numerous moneychangers on Salah al-Din St in East Jerusalem, and just inside the Damascus and Jaffa gates in the Old City, as well as on Jaffa Rd and Ben Yehuda St in West Jerusalem. All offer competitive rates, though it pays to shop around, and there's generally no commission on cash or travellers' cheques (but ask first); those in the west are closed for Shabbat. Money Net, 13 Ben Yehuda, is open the latest (Sun-Thurs 10am-10pm, Fri 10am-3pm, Sat nightfall-10pm). The main post office, on Jaffa Rd, will also change cash and travellers' cheques at good rates with no commission.
CAR RENTAL Note that it is unwise to drive Israeli-registered vehicles (with yellow plates) onto the West Bank, where they may be stoned by youths, or to drive West-Bank-registered vehicles (with white Palestinian plates) into Israel, where they may attract the attention of security forces. This especially applies when tension is high. For driving in Israel: Avis, 22 King David St (tel 624 9001); Budget, 8 King David St (tel 624 8991 or 624 8992); Eldan, 24 King David St (tel 625 2151, 625 2152 or 625 2153); Europcar, 8 King David St (tel 624 8464); Hertz, 18 King David St (tel 623 1351); Thrifty, 8 King David St (tel 625 0833 or 625 0834). For driving on the West Bank: Good Luck, at the Ram junction north of town, 200m from Kawasmi gas station (tel 244 0160). For both Israel and the West Bank: Orabi, opposite Dijani Hospital in Bet Hanina (tel 585 3101 or 585 3106) offers the choice of cars with Israeli or Palestinian number plates, while Petra (tel 582 3735), at Shu'afat junction north of town has cars with Israeli plates and Arabic stickers.
CLOTHES In summer, wear loose-fitting cotton clothes and a sun hat (traditional kibbutz hats are ideal) to protect you from sunstroke. In winter, you'll need warm clothes, especially at night. You'll also need long-sleeved tops, trousers and/or a skirt, since local people in Muslim and ultra-orthodox Jewish districts of cities don't take kindly to miniskirts or shorts, and frown on trousers or short sleeves for women; in any case you must dress "modestly" to visit a mosque, synagogue or church.
CONSULATES Many countries have two, one in West Jerusalem for Israel, and one in East Jerusalem for Palestine. As the USA now recognizes Jerusalem as Israel's "indivisible" capital, their West Jerusalem consulate is due for an upgrade to embassy status, and their East Jerusalem one may move elsewhere. UK, Tower House, HaRakevet St (tel 582 8281) (West) and 19 Nashashibi St, Sheikh Jarrah (tel 582 8263) (East); USA, 16 Agron St (tel 625 3288) (West), and 27 Nablus Rd (tel 628 2231) (East).
CULTURAL CENTRES The British Council, 4 Abu Obeida (tel 628 2545), and in the German Colony at 3 Shimshon (tel 673 6733); US Cultural Centre, 19 Keren HaYesod (tel 625 5755).
CURRENCY Israel's currency is the New Israeli Shekel (NIS). At present, Palestine does not have its own currency. It's worth noting that US dollars are widely accepted, and along with other hard currencies can be used to pay bills not only in hotels (rates are usually quoted in dollars anyway), but also in restaurants and shops. The advantage of paying for hotels, car rental or air tickets in hard currency is that it avoids payment of VAT (currently seventeen percent).
DENTISTS For emergency dental treatment call 563 2303 (8am-midnight).
DISABLED TRAVELLERS JDC-Israel Information Centre, PO Box 3489, Jerusalem 91043 (tel 678 7454, fax 678 8458) can supply information on accessibility of tourist sites and accommodation catering for people with different disabilities. Yad Sarah, 124 Sederot Herzl (tel 644 4455), offer free loan of wheelchairs and mobility aids for a deposit. Access Israel (1988), obtainable by post from Access Project, 39 Bradley Gardens, London W13 8HE (no price but donation requested: cheques payable to Access Project), though a little out of date, remains unsurpassed for its list of wheelchair-accessible hotels, lavatories and public buildings, as well as a map of the Old City showing a wheelchair route of the main sights avoiding the steps. The Hymie Moross Community Centre, 20 Misgav Ladakh (tel 628 3777), have devised a wheelchair-friendly tour of the Jewish Quarter, of which they can supply maps, as well as other advice. Hotels that we believe to be wheelchair-friendly are indicated in the listings, though readers are advised to check in advance and always advise hotels of particular special needs.
ELECTRICITY 220v 50Hz with triple-round-pin plugs and sockets. British, Irish and Australasian plugs will need an adaptor (double-round-pin electric shavers will be all right, though, and double-round-pin European plugs will fit most sockets). American and Canadian appliances will also need a transformer, unless multivoltage.
EMERGENCIES Ambulance (Magen David Adom, equivalent of Red Cross) tel 911, tel 101 or tel 652 3133, plus medical help for tourists tel 171/022 9110; Fire tel 102; Police tel 100; Rape crisis tel 651 4455 or tel 625 5558. See also "Hospitals", "Pharmacies" and "Dentists".
GAY TRAVELLERS Agudah run a gay and lesbian switchboard, The White Line (Tues, Thurs & Sun 7.30-11.30pm; tel 03/629 2797; in Haifa: Mon 7.30-11pm; tel 04/852 5352). They're on the Web at www.geocities.com/WestHollywood/Stonewall/2295.
HOSPITALS Hadassah, on Mount Scopus (tel 677 6040); and Augusta Victoria, also on Mount Scopus (tel 628 7122). Holders of Blue Cross and Blue Shield medical insurance are covered for treatment at Hadassah.
HUMAN RIGHTS ORGANIZATIONS Alternative Information Centre, 6 Koresh, West Jerusalem (tel 624 1159, fax 625 3151, aicmail@trendline.co.il); B'Tselem, 43 'Emek Refaim, German Colony (tel 561 7271, fax 561 0756, mail@btselem.org); Jerusalem Media and Communication Centre, 7 Nablus Rd (tel 581 9776 or 581 9777, fax 582 9534, jmcc@baraka.org); Palestine Human Rights Information Centre, top floor, 12 Mas'udi (tel 628 7076 or 628 7077, phric@baraka.org); UNRWA, Karl Netter St, Sheikh Jarrah (tel 589 0400).
LANGUAGE COURSES For information on all levels of Hebrew language courses ( ulpanim), contact the Adult Education Office, 11 Betzalel (tel 625 4156 or 625 4157). Expect to pay around $180 per month.
LAUNDRY The self-service laundromat at 12 Shamai, behind Ben Yehuda St in downtown West Jerusalem, is the cheapest place, though many hotels and hostels have an in-house laundry service, either officially, or run by members of staff. In the Old City, there is al-Aswar, 68 al-Wad Rd, opposite the Austrian Hospice.
OPTICIANS Halperin, 49 Jaffa Rd; Optica-Coloton, 72 Jaffa Rd.
PHARMACIES Alba, 7 Ben Yehuda and 42 Jaffa Rd; Dr Bella, 6 King David St; Habash, 106 al-Wad, Old City; Super Pharm, 23 Haistadrut. Ora at 27 King George St do homeopathic remedies. The Jerusalem Post prints a list of duty emergency pharmacies.
POLICE Muscobiya, Russian Compound (tel 539 1254); Omar Ibn al-Khattab Square, by the Citadel (tel 627 3222); Tourist Police, 30 Jaffa Rd.
POST OFFICES The main office is on Jaffa Rd, in West Jerusalem (Sun-Thurs 7am-7pm, Fri 7am-noon), with poste restante, exchange facilities, and a 24-hour telegram office; East Jerusalem's main office is at the corner of Salah al-Din and Sultan Suleiman (Sun-Thurs 8am-6pm, Fri 8am-noon, Sat 8am-2pm). Branch offices include one inside the Jaffa Gate, opposite the Citadel entrance and one in the alley by 19 Hillel (both Sun-Thurs 2.30-7.30pm, Fri & eve of holidays noon-8pm). Stamps can also be bought from stationers, souvenir shops, bookshops and large hotels. Unless otherwise specified, mail addressed to Poste Restante (general delivery) will be delivered to the Jaffa Rd post office.
SPELLING Hebrew and Arabic use different alphabets to English, so spellings in English vary. Certain sounds in Arabic, and in Hebrew, if pronounced strictly correctly (usually by Sephardic speakers), do not exist in English. Spelling in this book tries to be consistent, but if there is already an established English spelling for something, that has been used, even if it does not conform to the latest transliteration standards.
TAXIS Abdo (tel 628 3281); al-Aqsa (tel 627 3003); Aviv (tel 625 7366); HaUma (tel 538 9999); Itihad (tel 628 6941); Jerusalem (tel 582 4888); Mount of Olives (tel 627 2777); Rehavia (tel 625 4444).
TELEPHONES International calls can be made from any public callbox using a phonecard (available from newsstands). Alternatively, Solan Communications, A.M. Lunz St, off King George St, is open round the clock for calls and faxes. To call abroad, there are three different firms with different prices for each country and different access codes, available from all phones: Bezeq, cheapest for the US and Ireland (tel 00); Golden Lines (tel 012); and Barak, cheapest for Australia, New Zealand, Canada and the UK (tel 013).
TIME Jerusalem is on GMT+2. Clocks in Israel go forward for daylight saving in March, and back again before the Jewish New Year (usually in September).
TIPPING Salaries for waiters and waitresses are meagre in Israel, so in West Jerusalem at least, they rely on tips. Expect to find the words "Service not included" handwritten on restaurant bills when you pay. Around 15tel would be a normal tip. In East Jerusalem, tips are equally appreciated though rarely so unsubtly demanded, and waiting staff are more likely to earn their tip with service and a smile. Hotel staff in upmarket establishments on both sides of the Green Line expect a gratuity for their services, and a similar amount to what you would pay in the UK or North America would also be appropriate in Jerusalem. The same applies to tourist guides. People who may attach themselves to you in the Old City and start giving you a spiel about the history of the sights are actually angling for baksheesh on the basis of having been your guide - make it clear if you do not want their services. Bartenders and taxi drivers, on the other hand, do not expect a tip.
TRAVEL AGENTS ISSTA, 31 HaNeviim (tel 625 7257), is the best place for student discounts and cheap flights. Mazada Tours, 9 Koresh, corner of Agron St (tel 623 5777), runs buses to Egypt, Jordan, Syria and Iraq. The Petra Hostel can also supply Mazada's Cairo bus tickets. Galilee Tours, 3 Hillel St (tel 625 8866), run transport to Egypt. United Tours is at the King David Hotel annexe, 21 King David St (tel 625 2187 or 625 2188).
VAT Value Added Tax (17%) for items (other than tobacco and electrical or photographic goods) bought at stores recommended by the Tourism Ministry is refundable at the airport, border or Haifa port when you leave Israel (or when leaving the West Bank at Allenby), provided the goods are in a sealed transparent bag, and that you have an invoice stating the amount of VAT paid. You are also exempt from VAT on hotel bills, car rental or air tickets, if you pay in hard currency.
WORK Jerusalem is not the best place to find work: less is available and wages are lower than in Tel Aviv or Eilat. The Petra and the al-Arab are good places to start looking. Remember that, though many travellers do it, it is illegal to work on a tourist visa.
