The easiest way to get a sense of the layout and size of Jerusalem is to take a round trip on the Egged tour bus (#99). Lasting just under two hours, the route takes in most areas of the city and many of the most important sights; starting near the Jaffa Gate it includes the President's Residence, the Knesset, Mount Scopus, the Garden Tomb, and for the grand finale - a circuit around the perimeter of the Old City, giving you the chance to see Mount Zion. Tickets (1-day 20NIS, 2-day 30NIS) are available on board, but it's worth reserving in advance. Note too that although it's a hop-on/hop-off tour, it's best not to break your journey as the buses are usually full and you may have a long wait till the next one. The driver provides a running commentary, but if the majority of passengers are Israeli it will be in Hebrew, so check the language first at the Reservations Centre, 224 Jaffa Rd (tel 530 4422), where you can pick up information and make bookings . The tourist information office at the Jaffa Gate also does reservations.

 

Other guided bus tours, operated by Egged Tours, 44a Jaffa Rd, by Zion Square (tel 525 3454), and United Tours, King David Hotel annexe, King David St (tel 625 2187, or bookable through most upmarket hotels), include half-day options (77-80NIS) to the Old City , West Jerusalem (to which Egged also does a full-day tour) or Bethlehem , as well as a full-day tour taking in all three (155-195NIS). United Tours also offer outings to Masada and other parts of Israel.

If you fancy exploring on foot, there's a wide range of walking tours in English. The city council runs free tours every Saturday at 10am, leaving from the City Hall complex, 32 Jaffa Rd. The section of the city covered changes from week to week, but most walks last around three hours. If you're willing to pay, there's a greater variety on offer from Zion City Tours (tel 628 7866, also bookable through several Old City hostels; 35-70NIS), opposite the Citadel entrance inside the Jaffa Gate, with at least one departure every morning and afternoon, except on Shabbat. Archaeological Walking Tours, 34 Habad (tel 627 3515), in the Old City's Jewish Quarter, do three-hour tours starting at 9.30am (Sun-Fri; 56NIS), but they cover only archeological sites of Jewish interest. Alternatively, you could join one of the specialized walking outings run for groups by freelance tour guides Khalil Toufagji and Sarah Kaminker (tel 628 6045), and Abu Hassan (tel 627 7216 or tel 052/864205, raed@jrshotel.com), or take a political tour of the Old City with former Palestinian activist Ali Jiddah (tel 052/438109). Abu Hassan also runs tours to West Bank destinations such as twice weekly outings to Jericho (50NIS; a half-day tour) and Hebron (60NIS; a half-day tour), plus more frequent trips to Bethlehem (35NIS; a 3-4hr tour), as well as going to Gaza , Nazareth and Tiberias , and a West Bank refugee camp .

Most hostels and many cheap hotels offer tours, though they're actually all the same ones run by two or three operators, who collect passengers from establishments selling their tours before setting off. Most of them are run for backpackers, so are strong on camaraderie and early starts but weak on comfort and smooth rides. The most popular one is the Masada Sunrise Tour, leaving at around 3am daily and costing about 30NIS/$15, though entrance fees aren't included. It takes in Masada at dawn, plus whistle-stop visits to Ein Gedi , the Dead Sea , Qumran , Jericho and St George's Monastery at Wadi Qelt, returning to Jerusalem at around 3pm. Places offering excursions include: Al-Arab Hostel; Cairo Hostel; Jerusalem Hotel; New Swedish Hostel; Palm Hostel; Petra Hostel and the Tabasco Hostel and Tea Room.